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Most of the modern homes have incorporated the design of home basements as a means of conserving space. The basements house bathrooms, washing rooms, and rooms for laundry. The bathrooms need exhaustion services time and again. Because they are at such low levels, they need the means to pump the wastewater out.
A sewage ejector pump is a tool used to provide the gravitational force from lower grounds to higher levels. For the sludge to flow from low levels to sewage pit, it needs a gravitational pull. The sewage ejector pump ensures that the sludge exits to the mains drainage. In this article, we cover how to install sewage ejector pump in basement.
Requirements for the Installation
The vent helps in the equalization of pressure to eliminate vacuums when pumping the water out. It achieves equalization by filling the empty spaces with air. It also helps in the removal of sewer gasses.
It stores sewer water until the tank is full, and the water is ready for pumping out. It allows the water from the laundry, and the bathroom drain into it. Its installation has to use accurate measurements for effective functionality.
The sludge outlets allow the sludge to flow easily, hence should have an accurate measurement. They should be able to cover the piping holes of the man covers.
A Check Valve
It helps in stopping the waste from flowing backward into the tank. The check valve, which is between the sump basin and the sewage inlet, also helps stop wastewater from flowing back during maintenance routines.
The sewage ejector pump needs electricity to function. Your basement should, therefore, have electricity supply which should also be within reach of the cord.
Step by Step Sewage Pump Installation Guide
Step 1: Mount the basin to the floor
When mounting the basin; you must consider the measurements of the height and the basin's circumference as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. The sump cover will automatically determine the circumference. It would be best if you got all the measurements correct since the basin's mounting happens before any other plumbing work or installations.
The standard depth of the pit usually is 30 inches. The depth allows it to operate by gravity, allowing a smooth flow of wastewater into the tank.
Step 2: Set up the float switches
Set the float switches and secure them with glue on top of the pump. Ensure that it has a free range of movement with its trigger turned towards the basin. The pump should turn on when the water reaches the float switch level. This process causes suctioning of the fluid into the drain through the check valve.
Step 3: Pipe and Test
The pump's piping connections should be efficient since they are essential to the effective working of the ejector pump. Carefully consider the discharge and vent connections. A two-inch male adapter that also has threads is needed to allow fixing that is indirect with the discharge pipe.
Ensure that the discharge PVC's length is above the basin cover by at least 3 inches to connect the discharge connection and the check valve to the main drainage.
Step 4: Set the ejector pump
Tie the ejector pump to the discharge pipe to minimize the pump’s movement after placing it in the sump basin. It would be best if you considered putting the pump far away from the inlet so that the float switch is not near the inlet pipe. The distance helps in preventing the float switch from clogging.
Step 5: Installing the Sump Cover
Put the basin lid on and ensure that the pipes from the sump basin can adequately fit the lid cover holes. The three holes serve the vent pipe, the drainage pipe, and the electrical cords. The basin lid also comes with screws, three grommets, and a gasket.
Fix the gasket in the inner basin cover for complete sealing. Ensure that the lip of the tank is clean before you rip off the gasket to stick effectively. Tie the cords to the breather pipe to keep them from sagging and affecting the float switch’s operations.
There are three more gaskets for the basin cover. The gaskets help to ensure that no gas escapes to the basement.
Step 6: Connect the Grommets
In this step, you install the grommets around the cords and the pipes. There are two holes on the cord grommet split into either side for them to go through the gap smoothly. Fix the grommets to the cover holes by pushing them to stick to the lid of the basin.
When fixing the pipe grommets, place the gasket before you place the grommet. Use and attach the basin cover with the bolts and washers provided and also consider applying a lubricant on the bolts and screws to prevent rust.
Step 7: Fit the check valve
It would be best if you had a check valve since its primary function is to prevent the waste water from flowing back to the tank. Install the valve horizontally as per recommendations and include an optional yet essential ball valve on top. The ball valve is useful when you want to disconnect sludge flow and stop waste from going back to the check valve, especially during pump repair or replacement.
How to maintain your sewage ejector pump
To have a sewage pump that works efficiently, you must know a few maintenance tips. Proper maintenance ensures that the sewage pump can give you service for a long time without expensive repairs. A few tips for doing this include:
- Clean the ejector pump with a hose to remove any waste
- Ensure that the ejector pup is well-lubricated by checking the oil levels
- Ensure all impellers have no sewage matter
- Replace any parts in case of physical damages occurring
- Tighten all the seals after conducting the maintenance.
Find out more tips on septic tank here.
This step by step guide towards the installation of a basement ejector pump will effectively help you in carrying out the task. A sewage ejector pump can last to about eight years, considerably long time with adequate maintenance. The ball valve helps in increasing the pump's functionality and, together with the check valve, can last for five years.
The information provided here and careful following of the steps and instructions will help you effectively install the pump.